As of this coming Thursday, it is officially fall in Buenos Aires, and if the moody rainclouds of late are anything to go by, the weather is certainly committing to it. The pool party and asado invites are slowly trickling away, and perhaps you’ve forgotten what one does in Buenos Aires without an ice cold Fernet and cola in hand and a strong sunburn steadily building up on your shoulders?
But fall is the season to get out and about before things really get drastic and you have to spend your weekends swaddled under blankets with Netflix for comfort. And living in a city of over 160 museums means that there are a lot more options than perennial favorites like MALBA or MACBA.
So we rounded up a few alternative museums to explore this fall that may not yet be on your radar but will still help you escape those fickle autumnal winds and rain.
Museo Xul Solar
To start with we have this art gallery, set up in 1986, dedicated to preserving the work of Argentine artist Xul Solar, who was a painter, sculptor, writer, and inventor of imaginary languages. He was fascinated by astrology, mysticism, and reincarnation, and the work reflects his academic journey of discovery in these areas. The museum showcases many of his surrealist, dreamlike paintings and sculpture and is a great opportunity to explore a little Argentine art outside of MALBA. But what really sets this gallery is apart is the incredible fusion of the building with the art, utilizing light, shadow and disproportionate structures to make you feel you are wandering through one of the paintings yourself. The museum has also preserved Xul’s original living quarters, so you can delve even deeper into his psyche while getting some interior #inspo.
Tuesday – Saturday, 12 PM – 8 PM | Laprida 1212 | AR $100 | Website
Museo de la Palabra
This museum was originally curated by Jorge Dinoia, a linguistics graduate, who decided to challenge the passage of time and scarcity of funds given to history’s linguistic legacy by opening up his private collection of recordings and speeches to the public. Since his death it has been run by the Municipalidad de San Isidro and gives visitors the chance to spend time with the voices of history. The first recording of the Argentine National Anthem, Greta Garbo’s husky vocals, Russian Tsars juxtaposed by Lenin and Trotsky’s speeches, and even Carlos Gardel singing a jingle make up this collection of over 2,800 recordings from radio, cinema, international politics, art, and literature. The museum is only available via appointment. Contact the Municipalidad de San Isidro for more information.
By Appointment | Luis M. Drago 2265, Villa Adelina | Free | Tel: 4766-8746
Museo Kim Yun Shin
Hidden behind a modest white door in a little corner of Flores, this art museum primarily exhibits the colorful work of Korean-Argentine artist Kim Yun Shin. She is now 83 years old and can often be found wandering about the gallery, free to talk about her inspiring work. Much of her art reflects the roots of her story, from leaving post-war Korea to setting up a new free-spirited life in Buenos Aires, and she describes it as an expression her thoughts and soul.
The result is a vibrant and abstract collection of contemporary paintings and sculptures with many references to her Buddhist background coming through in the natural themes and materials used. We highly recommend for lovers of modern art. The gallery also hosts some private workshops and talks if you want to find out more about the Korean art scene in Buenos Aires.
Open daily | Felipe Vallese 2945 | Free | Website
Museo de la Balanza
What began as a personal hobby for founder Bernardo Fernández has now morphed into a bizarrely fascinating display of weighing scales from across the world. Over a thousand examples are on display in this Barracas museum, which has become a weirdly wonderful document to the myriad ways humans have developed to weigh things. From a 500-year-old bronze stick from India that was used both to prod elephants as well as weigh opium to a scale that measures the weight of trucks, all the scales still function perfectly. Sure to be an unexpectedly interesting afternoon if it takes your fancy.
Monday – Friday, 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM | California 2000 – Barracas | Free | Wesbite
Museo del Titere
Since 1985, the often overlooked Puppet Museum has been exhibiting more than 400 of its huge collection of vintage, hand-crafted puppets. They’ve been donated or bought from every reach of the globe, and now sit eerily on display in this small San Telmo building, which is the only museum of its kind in South America. But, unless you have a particular passion for admiring puppets, the real highlight of this museum is the puppet show and the workshops that are run there. You’ll get a chance to see these relics of the past come to life and learn how to pull the strings yourself.
Wednesday – Sunday, 3 PM – 6 PM | Piedras 905 | Free | Website